Friday, February 22, 2013

Sister time

Before I moved to South Africa, I lived with my sister in Brooklyn. I was spoiled. We saw each other almost every day. I miss this most.

Two weeks ago, Julie arrived at King Shaka airport in Durban. (It hadn't occurred to me until just recently, but this is the longest we had ever been apart.) She was the same Jules, all legs and dimples and yoga glow, and I was very glad to see her.

Me and Julie as kids – goofy pajamas, Easter hats and tap shoes

Our 10-day adventure commenced almost immediately, as I had to quickly explain that I was also waiting for two residents from Columbia (arriving on the same flight), who we would be guiding to a rest stop in Pietermaritzburg where they'd meet Krista. And when we got to my car, I demonstrated how to yank open and slam shut the dented passenger-side door and how to turn on the air-conditioner (roll down the windows). Welcome to Africa, Julie.

I must admit that I was a little concerned when (prior to her arrival) Julie asked me if a small hair iron would work in South Africa. I was tempted to tell her that yes, hair irons work fine; I call them hats. (Instead, I told her what kind of power convertor to buy.) But throughout the trip – the hot, humid weather, long drives and chaotic nature of basically everything – Julie just kept smiling and went with the flow. She even bought herself a hat.

We did a lot. We watched the Africa Cup of Nations semi-final soccer game in Durban, went on game drives in St. Lucia and Hluhluwe, saw baby turtles hatch on the beach of Cape Vidal, drove up Sani Pass and met shepherds in Lesotho, and relaxed in the tranquil hills of Ixopo at the Buddhist Retreat Center. Julie even taught a yoga class to the iTEACH staff.

AFCON semi-finals, Moses Mabida Stadium, Durban

Hippos, St. Lucia

Turtles, Cape Vidal

Lions, Hluhluwe

Shepherds, Lesotho

Mountain Kuti, BRC, Ixopo

iTEACH yoga class

I think Julie learned a lot too – she at least got a good glimpse of my life here. She met Sthe and the kids at Imbali J and helped with my arts and crafts class; she saw my boat and watched me scull at Albert Falls Dam; she attended an iTEACH staff meeting at Edendale Hospital; she saw townships and tribal land – goats, cows and school children walking along the side of the road; she met Doug, Buyani and all of the animals I live with at 11 Valley Road; she met Gugu, Krista and Thando, the dogs, Tala and Juma; and she helped me make dinner for everyone at Krista's house. She experienced much of what has become a regular part of my life – much of it good, some of it bad.

Arts and crafts, Imbali J

I did my best to answer Julie's questions about health care and Edendale, the kids at Imbali J, poverty, crime and racial issues, and why my house is behind a gate and I sleep behind three locked doors, all without upsetting her too much – it was a vacation after all.

It felt really good to spend time with my sister. Together, we saw amazing animals (big and small) and incredible African landscapes, but it was all the little things that I enjoyed most – sharing a room every night like we did when we were little; making meals together; talking about friends and family at home; farting in front of one another and laughing about it. I lured Julie out here with visions of African wildlife and Zulu culture, but really, I just wanted to make her a chocolate cake and talk about the Gossip Girl series finale. I am already looking forward to her next visit.

There is nothing like sister time.

Love you, Jules.



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